[Cruver Collecter]

Originally Posted by smartd

That's a good idea, perhaps you can show us some pics later.
Funny that there were very few weathered models at a model contest I was at a couple of weeks ago.
Lost skill or not liked?

Have to see if I can dig up some more photos. I went to quite a few shows back in the mid and early 90s and during that period weathering was a pretty common on the models in the contests then. Only problem with weathering, is knowing when to stop.

Light exhaust stains with charcoals on French D 520.



Ju 88 exhaust stains using charcoals. Both these models were in Fine Scale Modelers Reader Gallery.

[smartd]

Originally Posted by Cruver Collecter

Have to see if I can dig up some more photos. I went to quite a few shows back in the mid and early 90s and during that period weathering was a pretty common on the models in the contests then. Only problem with weathering, is knowing when to stop.

Light exhaust stains with charcoals on French D 520. Ju 88 exhaust stains using charcoals. Both these models were in Fine Scale Modelers Reader Gallery.

What kind of scanner do you have? You seem to be able to produce photos out of thin air. I have hundreds of mine on my system but it would take years to do all of them with the scanner I have.

[Cruver Collecter]

Originally Posted by smartd

What kind of scanner do you have? You seem to be able to produce photos out of thin air. I have hundreds of mine on my system but it would take years to do all of them with the scanner I have.

I was fortunate in that I already had these on my hard drive. Still have to find where my stash of model photos are.

[smartd]

Here is something I did way back when. The markings are mine
cause I liked 'em. Flash rather washed out colour a bit, but it is one dirty bird.
Mud on wheels, mud splashed up side etc etc.

[Cruver Collecter]

Originally Posted by smartd

Here is something I did way back when. The markings are mine
cause I liked 'em. Flash rather washed out colour a bit, but it is one dirty bird.
Mud on wheels, mud splashed up side etc etc.

You went with a land based bird so you get to do the exhaust stains and mud streak detail. Did you make the decals your self? I have tried it a couple of times, but nothing to successful yet (Except for the ones I use on my stick and tissue balsa models, then my home grown decals look pretty good). For your exhaust stains, did you go with dry brushing?

[smartd]

Originally Posted by Cruver Collecter

You went with a land based bird so you get to do the exhaust stains and mud streak detail. Did you make the decals your self? I have tried it a couple of times, but nothing to successful yet (Except for the ones I use on my stick and tissue balsa models, then my home grown decals look pretty good). For your exhaust stains, did you go with dry brushing?

Decals from parts box. Dry brushing for all the dirt and exhaust, silver for paint chipping.
Actually never liked this model so I did not care what it looked like. It has been broken more times than Evil Knevil but still now remains a favorite.

[Epapazian]

The problem with weathering diecast models is that some of the methods employed on kit-made models don't always apply. Obviously you can't pre-spray panel lines a darker color prior to adding a lighter color, since the diecast models are already painted and detailed.

In my opinion, the best way to start is to practice on a model you don't care that much about. First step is to take a darker shade of the top and bottom colors, dilute it at least 50% using paint thinner, and apply this mixture, using a thin" liner" brush, on the panel lines. Allow it to dry for 10-20 minutes or so, then wipe off the surfaces with some soft paper wadded into a ball shape-- sometimes a dab of thinner on the paper helps--- plus a dry soft ended brush in hard to get at places. If this goes well most of the weathering paint that remains will now be in the panel groves---which is where you want it. Also, choose your models carefully. Corgi's planes tend to have deep panel lines and are fairly easy to weather; in contrast, Gemini's models have very lightly indented lines and are difficult to work with. It's a trial and error process and, inevitably, there will be spots that need correcting.

Once you get the hang of darkening panel lines, you move up to exhaust stains. Here, it is advisable to study some pictures of the plane involved, since the patterns of the stains and their coloration vary considerably. Once you have an idea of the way you want it to look, the stain can be applied in many ways. I usually employ a combination of black and rust brown or umber, thinned down about 30%. This is padded on in dabs, using a soft tipped, bristly brush, sometimes aided by a finger swipe here and there to create a diminishing stream effect. Obviously, the area nearest the exhaust should be the darkest, while the stain grows lighter around the edges and at its tapering extremities. To make this work, I frequently use another small brush dipped lightly in thinner, to make corrections, alterations, etc. as needed.

The main point to remember as you are practicing, is this. Even if you totally screw up and can't stand the way the weathered model looks, all you have to do to restore it to its original configuration, is to take a large brush, dip it liberally in thinner, and wipe off the mess you made. Just make sure you don't wait too long, else your paint work may cure and become very hard to remove.

Last, but not least, is creating stains, paint chipping effects and other weathering refinements, however I'll save these for another time. You've got to get your feet wet first.

Good luck.