[John Youngs]

I'm looking for advice or ways on how to effectively "seal" water-slide decals that have been applied to a matte finish. Inevitably, these decals will begin to peel, separate, or "silver" (taking on that sort of "plastic" appearance that results from the glue drying out and air space building up underneath the decal's surface) in time.

I'd like to know the best way to try to prevent this from happening - assuming such a thing can be done, and yet preserve the overall appearance of the original paint scheme without having to repaint the entire model over again. If anyone has good advice or suggestions on this (even if it's "leave it alone - don't alter anything here..."), I'd like to hear from you.

The model I'm referring to is the Armour B11B459 (98046) British "Omega" FG.1 Phantom. Here are a couple pix from a previous model - note the decals near the nose - you can clearly see the "silvering" effects that decal separation takes after this process has begun. I'd like to find a way to try to prevent this from happening - short of repainting and/or replacing all of the decals, unless that's the only solution in cases like this. Let me hear from you experienced modellers out there... - JY

[STARMAN 352ND]

John,
In order for decals to really work well the surface has to have a gloss surface on it and then you can put the decals on with Microsol which is a setting solution for decals ..Softens the decals to confirm to inregular surfaces for a painted on look.
Once that is done they you can spray a dullcote over it and your done.
The decals on the Phantom will just come off in time due to the surface not being glossy.

[bsmith13]

Starman is absolutely correct. The method he mentions is the only way I have ever been able to prevent decals from silvering. This is due to the fact that microscopically, a flat finish is actually very bumpy. A Gloss finish gives the decal something nearly "flat" to lie on.

[Cruver Collecter]

Yep, thats the way to go. I have same problem with regards to models I am making. The model final paint scheme is a flat type paint so have to go over it with gloss prior to applying the decals and then follow up with flat clear coat. Testors puts out a couple of neat products. Decal Set (Normal Surface) and Decal Solvent Solution (For more complex surface). Current project I am working will require the Sovent Solution for the corrugated wing surface.

[Epapazian]

As a rule, I carefully brush some water -diluted Future floor polish evenly in the area where I intend to apply the decal. All I want is a modest amount of gloss over the dull matt finish. Then, after giving the polish an hour or so to dry, I put on the decal, using Microsol followed by Microset to soften the decal so it hugs the surface snugly. The final step is to use a paper towel or piece of cardboard with a cut out about twice the size of the decal as a mask. to avoid spraying the rest of the model. Several applications of Dullcoat usually do the job. However, if you use too much Future---or too much Glosscoat spray---you may have to apply Dullcoat more liberally.

[John Youngs]

Originally Posted by STARMAN 352ND

John,
In order for decals to really work well the surface has to have a gloss surface on it and then you can put the decals on with Microsol which is a setting solution for decals ..Softens the decals to confirm to inregular surfaces for a painted on look.
Once that is done they you can spray a dullcote over it and your done.
The decals on the Phantom will just come off in time due to the surface not being glossy.

STARMAN 352ND - Yup, that's kinda what I figured on - since the decals are already on, I guess there's not much I can do now. I don't suppose spraying over the entire plane (minus the canopy, etc.) with some sort of "sealer" would help, either, eh? Oh well, at least I asked! Thanks for the tips!! - JY

[Cruver Collecter]

Originally Posted by John Youngs

STARMAN 352ND - Yup, that's kinda what I figured on - since the decals are already on, I guess there's not much I can do now. I don't suppose spraying over the entire plane (minus the canopy, etc.) with some sort of "sealer" would help, either, eh? Oh well, at least I asked! Thanks for the tips!! - JY

If you want to give the aircraft a complete over spray, use of canopy mask is something to think about. Pretty sure you can find a 1/48th scale canopy mask set for the F-4 at Squadron.com. I have been using some of these mask sets for a few years now and really like them. Put them on during intial construction and they do not come off until everything is pretty much done on the kit.

[John Youngs]

Originally Posted by Cruver Collecter

If you want to give the aircraft a complete over spray, use of canopy mask is something to think about. Pretty sure you can find a 1/48th scale canopy mask set for the F-4 at Squadron.com. I have been using some of these mask sets for a few years now and really like them. Put them on during intial construction and they do not come off until everything is pretty much done on the kit.

Cruver Collector - Thanks for the tip on this - I'd never heard of this stuff. However, overspraying the entire model AFTER silvering (decal separation) has taken place probably won't solve the problem - my understanding is that it's too late for corrective measures once that has taken place - short of spraying the entire model before any new decals are applied... - JY

[Epapazian]

Originally Posted by John Youngs

Cruver Collector - Thanks for the tip on this - I'd never heard of this stuff. However, overspraying the entire model AFTER silvering (decal separation) has taken place probably won't solve the problem - my understanding is that it's too late for corrective measures once that has taken place - short of spraying the entire model before any new decals are applied... - JY

In cases where one is stuck with silvering already showing several solutions can be attempted:

1) Apply more setting solution on the decals to see if this will reduce the silvering. I sometimes use a moist tissue to press down the decal, but proceed with caution.

2) Matching the paint color---not always easy----use a fine tipped brush to cover the silvered areas. Then, mask and spray the whole area with Dullcoat. This often works but the paint application must blend in with the adjacent area, not form a raised ring that also is visible. Dab it on lightly and, if you can, smudge it down with your finger to blend it into the surrounding paint.

3) Remove the decals and start over. I often remove decals by applying tape to them and then jerking it off. this may take several attempts to remove all of the pieces. This often works on kit- makes but isn't much good on diecasts with pad printed markings. Plan B is to use decal or nail polish remover of one sort or another, but this is risky as you may take off some paint as well.

[Cruver Collecter]

Originally Posted by John Youngs

Cruver Collector - Thanks for the tip on this - I'd never heard of this stuff. However, overspraying the entire model AFTER silvering (decal separation) has taken place probably won't solve the problem - my understanding is that it's too late for corrective measures once that has taken place - short of spraying the entire model before any new decals are applied... - JY

Mask sets are pretty neat to work with. Pretty much peal, apply and paint over. Just a case of removing the mask when you are done. Might be helpful on future projects. Here is a photo of an F-4 mask (1/48th scale).